Helgelandskusten – worth waiting for.

It has never been so full in my kayak when I have a bag from the big department store left with gadgets. Never so full that most of that bag may be left in the car.

We struggle with our luggage on the beach in Tonnes of sunshine that warms like that hot as they are happy, but when you stow kayak gadgets. We'll finally get to paddle this mythical archipelago as we read about and half-scheduled into the calendar but never got it to match the rest of the time. Now it happens. Food consumed in different positions and shapes. Everyone wants to get away while we try to take it easy. Driving from accommodation at Hemavans hostel was long but also very beautiful. Longer still was the day before the trip that took us to Hemavan through places and villages to the most read about. Björn Ferry Storuman, Wilhelmina which had a liquor and Dorothea that had nothing, I felt as. But the soft ice cream in Ramsele we had time. My previous trips to northern Sweden has always been by train or plane thereof euphoria over these sites. As we pass villages considerably less than the metropolises we attributed to this work and living man in what other city but it is very far to the larger civilization. Yet very many a Thai Pub in any form. Sometimes, in the form of a carriage, food truck that we would call it in our latitudes, and sometimes as the pizzeria any time. The pizzerias were these villages in the 90's is now Thailand Bars. Foodculture of width simply.

The evening is late in Hemavan but the light stays.

Nice views for the road.

Just in time for departure, it starts to rain and Erik's words that the water will gladly top of these lands come true. However, it is still hot so the rain does not disturb us in our cockpits when we bows off against Polcirkelmärket. The first night's camping place lives up to all our expectations - sandy beach with white sand and green water and black ice in the fund when we sit down to prepare supper. On top of that the rains ceased and the sun made its appearance.
Camp on Geiterøya

The next day the fog is dense when we wake up, which gives us an extra long breakfast and we continue north towards Rødøya first at 11 o'clock. The idea is it should take turns on top Rødøya next day and paddling forward is via Buøyas archipelago where we encounter two Norwegian kayaker who is very talkative and we will be sitting on the water for a moment and discuss the currents and tides, among others. Eventually Rødøya piling up the clouds and sometimes it is a mighty mountain side we have ahead of us the rest of the paddling there. We have been informed by the Norwegians on a bay with a beach where volleyball and beach chairs are produced without there being any where. Storsand called it turns out when we camp in Hest bay a short distance away and take a walk to get there. There is also a fresh water in the tube system coming from a source higher up. And someone has also built a freshwater shower with this system. This one must be well stay on the island, we think, but it is several kilometers to the village. Beautiful it is anyway on the beach located at the foot of the steep cliff.
DSC_2290The fog travels fast in this sea.



DSC_2328DSC_2318Skim plants and artwork on Storsand.

To Topps bestefar was said in the classic Ringenes advertising in the days. And we take the Norwegians on the words and head off in the morning towards the top of Rødøya. The fog is dense when we step out of the vegetation after a steep climb in it and enjoying the fans a little on the "tree line". DSC_2330redIMG_5166

redDSC_2344We meet Norwegians who have already been up and our fears coming true Take. But up we'll matter. We write in the top book in total fog and goes down a little bit for coffee and any hope that it will clear up. Färdigfikade we sit and discuss how long we should wait. Peter think we should hold out for a while, and as the hour gives us reward. 20 minutes later we are at the sharp edge and looking out over a stunning landscape. Worth waiting for, to use even a loop advertising. Pointed out that these loops can now belongs to the same group, if there was someone who wondered.DSC_2358

DSC_2356DSC_2373redDSC_2380Satisfied toppturare coming down.

Late afternoon we sit in kayaks and paddles back south. There will be a short paddling yet canoeing and we land on Buøya night camp. You should also celebrated a spirited 67-year-old with fire and finrom at the same. We will be sitting a long time and solve world problems that are always at the campfire.DSC_2381

redDSC_2383redDSC_2384Low water at Buøya.

The next day the wind forecast southerly and quite hearty lunch ahead. An overpass waiting and it's bumpy with lake from different directions, not unlike our very own Hemfjärd, slightly saltier and more just. We paddle even countercurrent so forward speed is modest, and as we approach the next archipelago blow it sharply against. It will be a long lunch to wait for the wind.redDSC_2393

It calms down somewhat and it is late afternoon when we once again are on the way. Hest Mona's northwest side is our goal. We camp just before it starts raining but I just have time to bathe before it breaks loose properly. The evening is spent in large tarp that Mats meritorious drags on in his spacious kayak. Thankful For us who are busy with our own packing. I had small tarp with me gave my Treat a perfect patio under roof during rain.DSC_2394

Camp at Hest Mona.

The rain is pouring down all night and continues at the same pace in the morning. Once til tarp for breakfast and consultation on day canoeing. We have dropped the plan and Lovund will be difficult to achieve within our timeframe. No one is eager to pack in the pouring rain so we await weather.DSC_2400

We will set off after lunch and keep us on the east side of Hest Mona when we paddle south. We meet two Swedish girls south of Hest Mona who took the boat from Lovund to Onoya. They needed to get out of there but fog and rain made them choose ferry. Good that there is a possibility when the time is sometimes not enough. The night is spent on Ytterkvarøya that offers finväder and pleasant tältvik. In addition, an alpine tour in mini format but the view is still formidable. One does not come up more than 100 meter ö.h. to get some views when it starts at zero. The evening was rounded off with big dominoes at sunset and the right team won. Speaking sunset so it was never really dark in these latitudes.redDSC_2416


redDSC_2426DSC_2439The evening tältvy - Hest aeruginosa classic silhouette.

A dry and fine morning met us when we crawled out of our tents. And, we crawl course of our dwellings at slightly different times. Some much earlier than the others and I belong to the other. But the main thing is that you sit in the kayak on the specified time. Not that we are militarily precise with uppsittningen but somewhat in time is desirable. The exterior of Lurøya offered even more eagles and maybe they're a little bigger here than at home. Or is it just that you experience it for everything else is great. redDSC_2404
The rumor that there was a deal on Lurøya created in a given conversation group. Sweets, fresh bread and lefsa stood on the wishlist. Once in the store, it turned out that only cards with Norwegian bank connection worked. Welcome to 2016 Norway. Luckily our very own blacksmith, Jocke, Bought by the Norwegian money after a tip hemomkring. We traded more than we needed and even prices could discourage us. Some things felt at home while chocolate from Firkløver cost as beef tenderloin. We headed for the beach straight across the bay with overcrowded kayaks to eat some of our Norwegian goods to lunch. I bought myself the largest avocados I've seen, also the single store avocados. Hope no island stay had ordered it and it did not.

We would now paddle southwards but had a poor prognosis that warned of rain and wind in quantities. We got no further than the Vardøya before the front towered over the bay outside and a wall of rain was moving toward us. Quickly into a beach and up the tents and tarpar while the rain first whipped and then gave us a gap of 20 minutes before it took off again. Now we were left on Vardøya for the evening and various activities took off. Anna and Karin paddled out to fish while others of us paddled around in the islands and down to Onoya. On the way back picked Mats and Daniel mussels for dinner. DSC_2483


redDSC_2479Freshwater Shower and mussels for the evening.

There were fish in all these forms when the girls came home with a good catch and we got a couple of mackerel a happy bunch on a boat that we met on our evening tour. Daniel, Karin and Anna ate most of the fish when interest in the rest of the gang were starved for their fine catch. The atmosphere was high during the tarp when Mats conjured up a cake of it he acted on Lurøya. Spray cream that offered asgarv when he would explain to the girl in the shop what he meant. The cake was the best I've eaten in a tarp and saturate paddlers fell asleep to the rhythm of the rain, as Milla Miracle singing.IMG_5209


We paddle to the north of the outermost islands off Lurøya with the sun in the back. We are heading towards Tonnes or the area around it. We do not begrudge us 11 classic coffee at one of the low inserts that are very similar to our West Coast. The big difference today is that we have real close contact with two large eagles. Not so concerned by our presence raises the casually as we approach and Peter get an overflight of the worst Top Gun style.redDSC_2500

redIMG_5213redIMG_5216We're a little too close Tonnes when evening comes to camp another night and wake up to tomorrow's promised rain. We take the last kilometers towards the cars and calling Hemavans hostel for accommodation. The bar is open until midnight tells the girl that I was booking rooms with. Bra, when we have time enough to visit, I intend. After supper at Esso in Mo i Rana, yes gas station that still exist in Norway, we arrive just in time for a shower and then the AP on Hemavans hostel. Good accommodation with awesome breakfast buffet that I highly recommend if you are heading to the Helgeland coast or another adventure at these latitudes.

We eat pizza in Ramsele on the way home where we ate soft ice cream on the way up. A sense of the 90s comes when I order pizza from the classic menu and select the Trocadero in the fridge to drink which also contains RC Cola.

Feels like we just sipped this huge archipelago, and we will probably take a turn to what it suffers. DSC_2417


Pottering on a map Erik but you can make do with text and images so long. More images are nine here.


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9 Responses to Helgelandskusten – worth waiting for.

  1. Erik Sjostedt 5 August, 2016 at 07:01 #

    finfint! Easy to get even more Helgeland Fancy 🙂

    • Johan Karlström 5 August, 2016 at 10:58 #

      Thanks Eric. Exciting to you despite your 5 visits are still eager to return.

      • Erik Sjostedt 5 August, 2016 at 13:57 #

        Attracts always nice pictures! And so it is with the places you like. Has been with Mr. Hult quite a few nights but is probably out with a few hundred to 🙂 has been living in Knäckebröhult more than 5000 nights but often find it nice to come home anyway 🙂

        • Johan Karlström 5 August, 2016 at 14:03 #

          So true Erik. Wise conclusions. Some places never get tired of. And the nice thing about nature is that it almost always offers something new. A changing living.

  2. Ulf Bolander 5 August, 2016 at 09:11 #

    And, it is so incisive! You write so well and thereto nice pictures

    • Johan Karlström 5 August, 2016 at 10:56 #

      Thanks Ulf. Would have loved to have had you with but sometimes it will not be as expected. Let us dedicate Tommy this adventure.

  3. He had 5 August, 2016 at 10:58 #

    fine reading, thanks Johan! We also stayed at Esso in Mo i Rana 🙂

  4. Jete 7 August, 2016 at 22:31 #

    Kanonbra text and monstrous images.

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